I was introduced to the Gatte ki sabzi when I was very young. My father's Marwadi friends would often send it home for us to try along with other Rajasthani delicacies like Ker Sangri.
It is an extremely simple dish. Gram flour dumplings in a gravy, to put it in one line! But it is truly amazing how such a simple thing can be made so tasty.
Rajasthan is known for such 'dry' curries - without vegetables. A lot of the food from the state is made without vegetables. An excellent example of the adaptibility of Indian food based on the territory it comes from. Most of the state of Rajasthan is desert. Vegetables were difficult to grow without the modern methods of farming. This resulted in many such foods being developed. Every cloud has a silver lining, right?!
The Gatte ki subzi is prepared by making a dough of besan or gram flour and other flavors like turmeric and red chilli powder. The gravy is curd based with seasonings.
The subzi goes very well with Dal Baati Churma and tastes excellent with simple parathas or phulkas.
You get good Gatte ki subzi in Dhola ri dhani, the Rajasthani resort on the outskirts of Hyderabad. Any joint that serves traditional Rajasthani food should also have it since it is one of the most common Rajasthani food items. But the really well made Gatte ki sabzi is to be had when it is made by a true blue Rajasthani maharaj (chef)!
One of the key elements in making this taste really good is the use of ghee to fry the dumplings and make the gravy. This adds a unique flavor which is impossible to get by using oil. Well, it certainly adds a whole lot of calories, but what the hell, you don't have a good Gatte ki sabzi everyday, do you?
Swati Snacks in Tardeo, Mumbai serves excellent Gatte ki sabzi along with Satpadi Rotli, a roti that has seven layers! This is undoubtedly the best I have had.